Judi Densch greeting locals

And it is such a great story…..7 Brits, one couple and 5 singles, facing retirement and conclude their finances cannot meet the monthly costs of the comfort they seek.  Their paths collide in Jaipur where they are all residents of  The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, presided over by Dev Patel, the breakout star of “Slumdog Millianaire”, as the irresrepressible owner of the hotel, includes Dame Judi Dench, recently bereaved and on her own for the first time; Tom Wilkenson, as a high court judge  returning to where he came of age; Maggie Smith, as a cranky, discarded housekeeper who could not tolerate the 6 month wait NHS for a new hip that could be done right off by contracted Indian doctors and then rehabilitate at an Indian “resort.” .

One by one, each character faces life changing and challenging moments, which require that they either embrace or reject the possibility of transformation, which, at age 60 plus, is encouraging and LAUDABLE.

GO FOR IT I SAY……..and see this most enjoyable movie!!!

Wine, food, fun, good company and GREAT DEALS!  Tell your friends and come see us next Thursday.

RSVP to kate@sharphilldesigns.com.

As our flight did not leave until 2:00AM, we returned to the Oberoi for a relaxing afternoon….me blogging, Pat catching up on CNN and his beloved cooking chanels.

V.K. met us at 3:00 and we had our final drive together to Delhi airport.  During this 6 hour drive, I tried to capture the multitude of means of transportation in India, whether on super highway or single lane back road, and in particular the unique Indian ability to pack so many bodies into a small space.  Also, to carry incredible loads on bicycles, auto rickshaws and trucks.

So how many people can you fit inside an Indian tuk-tuk?  Your guess is as good as mine, but I bet 20 is not far off…

My final post picture is of V.K. Yadav, our handsome, delightful and intrepid driver, who accompanied us on our journey though India.  For those of you who have ever driven in India, you will appreciate V.K.’s skills in navigating more than 3000 KM from Delhi to Jaipur, Agra and beyond.

Thank you V.K. for a most wonderful trip to your country….I will remember it always.

Not more than an hour into our drive, V.K. suddenly slowed down, stopped and backed up, excitedly telling me, “Maham, Maham ….look to your left!”  I did and was rewarded by this sight.

V.K. asked a young woman what was happening and as best I could understand, as V.K.’s English is not great, was that some sort of Hindi holy man was visiting this temple and the women and men had gathered to present offerings to him.  A few more images of this most memorable event.

It was about a 6 hour drive to Agra, so there were many opportunities for photos along the way.  As with every highway journey, I was struck by the communities with a small village feel that crop up on either side of the highway every 50 KM or so.  The stalls are all the same.  Most nothing more than a tarp held up by  strong sticks. Or just a cart on wheels…..selling fruit, sugar cane juice, sweets, shoes, clothing, shawls, milk jugs, water containers….satisfying the needs of the community….

Marigold and rose offerings

Unusually colorful canopy

We met our guide just outside Agra, where we visited Fatehpur Sikri, a virtual Mughal ghost town, built by Mughal Emperor Akbar in the 16th century where it was the capital of the Mughal Empire for only 14 years.  It is an impressive compound and even more so given it’s brief habitation.

Fabulous 5-story palace

Palace detail

From Fatehpur Sikri, we drove to the Agra Oberoi Hotel, where we checked in and briefly freshened up for our visit to the “piece de resistance,” the Taj Mahal.  This was the one major slip up of our travel agency.  The Taj is best visited at sunrise, when the marble is most translucent and the crowds few.  Our original itinerary called for us to visit the Taj at sunrise tomorrow, Friday, but the Taj is closed on Friday.  So we had to visit Thursday in the afternoon when temps exceed 100 degrees.  Not to worry, it was still a magical experience…..the Taj…

Because it is April, the tourist season is waning and most visitors to the Taj are native Indians.  I therefore was drawn to these visitors and depict them below.

We left as the sun was setting on this memorable view of the exquisite resting place of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan’s beloved wife  Mumtaz Mahal, who died in 1631.  In every sense our last day and major monument in India, but still there is one day to come. The temperatures have been in the 100 degree farenheit range, so we tend to end our days with a dip in the pool wherever we are staying.  Agra Oberoi pool last night….not bad!

Home tomorrow….can our India journey really be ending?  Hard to believe, but yes….final trip post tomorrow, but will try to post more pictures in the days to come as it has been such a tremendous visual feast.  And thank you, thank you, to whose of you who have followed me on this once in a lifetime journey to India…may we meet again in India.

We bumped along the roads, pitted with tree roots and rocks and before long our guide made the driver stop.  He listened intently and suddenly cried, “I heard an alarm!”  I thought he meant some sort of electronic alarm that indicates a tiger sighting, but he was referring to a specific cry that other animals make when they sight tigers (duh me!).  Our driver immediately turned the Jeep around and we were off…speeding over these uneven, rocky roads, making sharp turns…it was incredibly exciting.  We reached a clearing where probably a dozen other jeeps were parked, all waiting to sight a tiger.

Waiting to sight a tiger

The American couple with us said that the previous day they had waited 2 HOURS in one spot before the tiger appeared.  As we waited, we heard several alarms.  We were lucky….after about 10 minutes, the tiger was sighted! He was sitting on the ground several hundred feet from our Jeep, and was too far way for me to get any decent pictures (all of my pictures have been taken with my Blackberry).  But before long, he got up and ambled away.  Not to worry, our driver roared into gear and we were off on another chase to get a better look.  We stopped by a small water hole and waited (along with all the other Jeeps).   Our driver jockied us into a prime sighting position, so that when he appeared again, we could get great photos.  Among the other Jeeps were several with a BBC crew shooting a documentary about the forest and its tigers.

One of the BBC Jeeps

Again, after only a 10 minute wait, the tiger ambled into sight.  He moved very slowly and seemed totally oblivious to the multiple vehicles, and people aiming their cameras at him.  We were told that the tigers in the forest (only 46, including 18 cubs) will not attack unless they feel threatened and that they are so accustomed to the Jeeps, they just ignore them.

First real sighting for us

Best shot....he was probably 10 feet from us...magnificent!

Walking towards the BBC...how cooperative

After the tiger had passed by, we shot out once again and sped along until we reached a road, where the tiger continued his ambling.

Final sighting of our tiger

It was an amazing experience and we were all thrilled to have been lucky enough to actually see one of these beautiful cats.  Our guide and driver were especially pleased as they tend to get bigger tips when tigers are sighted.

The road into the forest is inhabited by local, native farmers.  There is also a Hindu temple in the forest which is visited by the locals.  Again, I was fascinated by the colorful sari’s and people.  A sampling of what we saw.

The local people cram into their vehicles (whether auto-rickshaw, mini-mini van, truck or tractor) an amazing amount of people.  This tractor had about 8 people inside and 2 boys on the top….very typical.

This very solemn boy posed for me...around his neck are flowers he will offer at the temple

We were back at the hotel/camp by 9:00, had a nice breakfast, read (I blogged), swam and were ready at 3 for our next safari.  This was much less exciting….there were no alarms and many fewer Jeeps in the forest (much hotter in the afternoon).  We saw spotted deer, monkeys (my battery was dead by the time we got to the monkeys so alas I could not take any photos….they were delightful) and lots of birds.  Only picture worth sharing is this of a tigerbird who ate cornbread crumbs from the hand of one of the women in our Jeep.

Back at the hotel/camp by 6.  Refreshing swim and gin and tonic by the pool, dinner, pack up for early departure tomorrow for Agra and to bed, where we were lulled to sleep in our tent by the sounds of the forest.  Only 2 more days in India….where has the time gone?

The fort from the road.  Construction began in the 16th century…it is huge in scale and a classic fusion of Mughal and Hindu architecture, built in red sandstone and white marble.  Unoccupied for the past several hundred years, it is incredibly intact.  Both a fort and a palace, it has a wall around it that is reminiscent of the Great Wall of China.

Though very touristy, we just had to take the elephant ride up to the fort.  The souvenir vendors surround you as soon as you enter the courtyard and continue to pester you on the ride up, sitting on the walls.  Annoying but, hey, it’s a major tourist attraction.

A note about the elephants.  Our driver told us that there are about 110 Amber Fort elephants and that each one makes only 3 trips a day in the summer season, which is now.  They carry passengers up only, not down.  We got there around 9am and Bul Bul was making her last trip of the day.

Palace entrance

The walls are painted using natural pigments and these are the original paintings.

Elephant detail

Safron garden

Just couldn't take my eyes off this woman's sari. She was sweeping the floor.

We left Jaipur on way to  Ranthambore and again the local color was fascinating.  Most of these images are of small farming communities and people. First a few images of Jaipur as we left.

Going home....

Camels for hire....we did not!

The drive to Ranthambore took us off the main highway, over some very  bumpy one-lane roads.  We passed through small farming villages.  Every time we stopped to take a picture, families would run out of their homes to greet us.  Very friendly people!

Many, many camels pulling carts

Typical farm house

Another farm house

Saris drying on wheat stack

These 2 boys emerged from a one room farmhouse, much like the ones above.  The boy on the left was sporting an iPod….go figure!

Woman sorting wheat

And my favorite….this gentleman let me take his picture for 20 rupees…how can you not love that face?

We arrived at our hotel/camp in Rathambore mid-afternoon, were greeted as always by an offering of cold towels and something to drink….this time a rose lemonade made with roses from the camp garden.  Our hotel, Aman-i-Khas, is a tented community.  10 tents for guests, dining tent, lounge and spa tents.  Our tent.

We went for a refreshing swim, had an early dinner and night….Our first safari leaves at 6am….will we see a tiger???

People

We shared the highway with SO many trucks, carrying everything from cotton and blocks of marble to tires and potatoes.  The drivers decorate the front and sometimes the back of their trucks with colorful paintings and fringe.  On the back, it usually says “Blow Horn Please” which everyone does as they pass, so that there is the constant sound of “beep beep” as cars and trucks pass one another.  It’s pretty much a free for all and can get pretty scary!

This is an unusually beautiful and detailed painting on the back of a truck

Roadside stand selling truck decorations

As always, the highway is also shared with animals.

It was about a 4 hour drive from Bassi to Jaipur.  We met our guide and set out immediately for the Old City.  Our first stop was Jantar Mantar, said to be the largest open air observatory in the world.  Built in the 18th century, it includes a HUGE sundial which still provides time within 2 seconds of accuracy.  Our guide snapped Pat and me in front of this impressive sundial.

Then on to City Palace, also built in the 18th century.  Like the palace in Udaipur, most of the Jaipur’s palace is given over for museums (this has a fabulous textile museum) and the large halls are rented for weddings.  Preparations for a wedding were going on when we visited.

Next stop was a shop, Ridhi Sidhi Textiles, that my friend Tracy suggested I visit.  They have fabulous quilts, bedding, umbrellas, scarves, shawls, etc.  I wanted to have a quilted jacket made.  At Tracy’s suggestion, I asked the owner to take me to his warehouse which he did.  Flipped through about 50 antique quilts and selected one for my jacket, and 3 others to be shipped that I hope to incorporate into bags.  As is common in Jaipur, the jacket would be delivered to the hotel that evening!  Pretty extraordinary and very reasonably priced.

Final stop was Rambagh Palace, where we were upgraded to a luxurious suite, much appreciated after our accommodation of the previous night.

We had a lovely dinner on the veranda overlooking the garden and were serenaded by Indian musicians.  Very restful night.  Tomorrow we have our elephant ride to Amber Fort and long drive to Ranthambore, where we hope to see some TIGERS!

Weddings

Bride

Groom

Wedding party along highway

People

Animals

We met our guide, a native of the village of Chittorgarh (4000 population), for our tour of Chittorgurh Fort.  Chittorgarh is one of the oldest cities in Rajasthan.  The fort, though mostly ruins, was once the seat of Mewar dynasty power.  Three times the fort was besieged and the Rajput rulers defeated….it has a tragic history.

Chittorgarh Fort

After leaving the fort, we drove for about an hour to the village of Bassi, where we experienced some REAL local color.  We stayed at the Bassi Fort Hotel and occupied the Royal Suite.  We were the only guests.  Our ceiling fan was whirring away, the window air conditioner going full blast and still we were warm.  After settling in and trying in vain to connect to the internet, V.K. and I strolled into the village.  It was dusk so the pictures are not great, but I hope it gives you an idea of this little village.

And my favorite…..

Still 2 days behind, but hope to catch up tomorrow…..ah, India!

After breakfast by the lotus pool, we took the hotel launch over to the Old City and met our guide and driver on the hotel dock.

Our first stop was the Hindu Jagdesh Temple.  Though many tourists were there, many worshipers were there as well, chanting to the beat of a drum.  No pictures were allowed inside the small temple, but here are a few taken outside.

Praying outside the temple

Selling flower offerings at foot of steps leading up to temple

From the temple, we walked up Palace Road to the palace.  The narrow street was lined with shops selling souvenirs and as always, we shared the road with motorbikes, bicycles, cows and street dogs.  The imposing palace is the largest palace complex in Rajasthan.  It was originally built in the 16th century and has been added onto by 20 successive maharanas over 400 years.

Impressive as the palace facade is, neither Pat not I were blown away by the interior.  I was interested to learn that royal families still exist in India.  Apparently the Udaipur royals are one of about 350 royal families remaining.  Although they have extensive land and property holdings, in the 1970′s Indira Ghandi took away their government subsidies and so the families were forced to sell off some of their holdings in order to maintain their lavish lifestyles.  For instance, the Palace is divided into 3…a public area and museum, private royal quarters and 2 hotels.

Pat and me in front of a palace mosaic

Most impressive was this wonderful mustache sported by the guard who collected our entrance tickets!

From the Palace we drove a short ways outside the old city to Sahileyon Ki Bari or Garden of the Royal Ladies.  Now a public garden, it was lovely, but again I was more taken by the local scene than the gardens.

Selling fruit by the entrance gate

Couple offering water just inside the entrance

Returned to hotel, took the hour-long boat ride around Lake Pichola where we watched the sun set behind the mountains.  Another lovely rooftop dinner with view of the lighted Palace….warm but light breeze kept us cool.  Wonderful end to our stay at the Lake Palace Hotel.

I’ve had some technical difficulties and so am 2 days behind in these posts.  Also the past 2 days have been VERY full so at the end of the day, I’ve not had the energy to post.  But I should have time in the next few days to catch up, so hope to post again soon.  Thanks to all of you who are following these posts.

Tracy has been teaching English 2 times a week to some of the children who live in Vivekananda.  It’s through a program called Make a Difference (or MAD), a nonprofit organization that is committed to teaching English to slum children so that they have a chance to continue their higher education.  Learn more about the organization here.  As we walked from the American School to Vivekananda, Tracy saw 5 or 6 children who she has been teaching, so we were escorted  into the community by the children.

A little history.  About 50 years ago a large construction project began across the street from the colony.  Many daily wage workers migrated to Delhi to work on this project and set up temporary shelters in the area that would become Vivekananda.  This is how many slums come into being.  The difference here is that usually once the construciton project is completed, the workers move on.  But not here.  It was a long project and over time tents gave way to brick walls with roofs cobbled together from plastic tarps or corrugated tin.

According to Tracy, the remarkable thing about this community is that it really is a community with a strong work ethic and indefatigable spirit.  Many work at the American School or the English School nearby and in local hotels.  We met the mothers and siblings of 2 of Tracy’s students and were warmly welcomed.  The water truck was there, so the kids were taking their water containers to be filled.  There is no running water, so a consortium of government and private agencies arranged for fresh, clean water to be delivered 2-3 times a day.  The kids would not allow us to help.

Tracy with some of her students outside their home

As we were leaving, we remembered the bags of candy we had purchased before our visit and when the word got out that candy was being doled out, we were swamped by dozens of outstretched hands.  Many said thank you.  Walking back to the American School, I was again struck by the dignity I had seen in these people living in circumstances I could never have imagined last week.  It is an experience I will never forget.

That afternoon, my husband arrived and that evening we had dinner with Tracy and John at a marvelous Indian restaurant , Varq.

John, Tracy, me, Pat at Varq

It was a fabulous meal and wonderful evening with old friends.

This afternoon we flew from Delhi to Udaipur.  We are staying the Taj Lake Palace, which is a former 260 year old palace located on an island in the middle of a lake (James Bond’s Octopussy was filmed here for those of you old enough to remember!).  It is GORGEOUS!  View of Lotus Garden from the door to our room.

More tomorrow as we explore romantic Udaipur, a city of lakes and palaces, as the guide books say.